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Giovannini Moresco

I had the pleasure of meeting one of our favourite clients recently for a lovely dinner at Medlar on the King’s Road.

I thought I’d bring one of my last bottles of a wine I was sure he hadn’t tasted.  A 1971 Barbaresco Pajore from Giavanni Moresco.  The wine on this showing had a strong volatile whiff reminiscent of dead mice but was typically velvety smooth palate and had exceptional length.  The palate was so good that we were able to look past the very strange nose.

Moresco only made wine between 1967 and 1979 and later sold his vineyards to the young Angelo Gaja who now incorporates this juice into his regular Barbaresco bottling.

My guest decided to serve his wine blind.  I was immediately in Piedmont but the modern style and the depth of colour of the wine threw me slightly.  It was very impressive  with good depth and balance with hints of smoke, graphite and wet earth.

To my amazement it was actually another Moresco which he had purchased from us – the 1979.  This is a very underrated vintage (more for Barbaresco than Barolo) and this was in fact very impressive.

The difference between the two wines was quite startling in colour and style.  The other two big successes for Moresco, the 1970 and 1974, are also along the style of the 1971.  This leads to think that Angelo Gaja may have had an influence quite long before buying the vineyards in 1980.

 

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